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Laying paving slabs can be a rewarding DIY project for many homeowners and is a great way to add functionality and beauty to your outdoor space. Paving slabs can be used to create pathways, patios, and even driveways. The process of laying paving slabs can be challenging, but with the right tools, materials, and techniques, it can be a gratifying project for any homeowner.
The size of the project is a crucial factor when determining whether to undertake paving as a DIY job. Smaller projects, such as laying a small patio or a garden path, may be suitable for a DIY job, however, larger projects, such as a driveway or a large patio, can be more complex, require more specialised tools and technical knowledge such as dealing with level changes or drainage requirements.
Laying paving slabs requires a certain level of skill and attention to detail, and mistakes can be costly. If you are unsure of your abilities, it may be best to hire a professional.
To lay paving slabs, you will need certain basic tools and equipment, such as:
Larger pieces of equipment may also be required such as a mini digger, wacka plate, petrol disc cutter and a cement mixer. If you do not already have these tools, you will need to purchase or rent them.
Consider the cost of tools and equipment when deciding whether to undertake the project yourself and also ensure you follow safety instructions, especially when using cutting tools. Also, make sure you wear the appropriate PPE.
Laying paving slabs can be a time-consuming project, especially for larger areas. You will need to set aside enough time to complete the project, including preparation, laying the slabs, and filling the gaps. If you have other commitments or a tight schedule, it may be best to hire a professional.
Laying paving slabs can be physically demanding work, especially when digging and leveling the base layer. If you have any health issues or physical limitations, it may be best to hire a professional to do the work.
Depending on the scope of your project some projects may require you to obtain planning permission prior to starting work. As a general rule, if you are using non permeable block paving on a driveway, you must ensure any surface water runs away within the boundaries of your property or alternatively, apply for planning permission.
Similarly, if you live in a conservation area, you may need permission. Check with your local authorities before undertaking any paving work if unsure, to ensure that you are following the necessary regulations.
To lay a patio, you will typically require the following:
Additionally, there are other tools that will make the project easier, especially if it's a larger area and it may be worth hiring these in. This includes a mini-digger for digging out the area to be paved, a wacka plate for firming the base, a cement mixer for making up the bedding mix and a petrol disc cutter for cutting paving slabs to size.
If you are cutting natural stone or concrete paving, you will need a diamond blade and if you are cutting porcelain, you will need to use a specific porcelain blade along with a cutting saw that has a water feed. You may also need a skip to dispose of the soil or waste material removed when you dig out the ground.
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If you are still keen to undertake the paving project yourself and just need to know how to proceed, read on for our step-by-step guide on how to lay paving slabs.
The first step in laying paving slabs is to plan your project. Decide on the area where you want to lay the slabs and measure it to determine the number of paving slabs you need. Always add on at least 10% more than your measurements to allow for cuts as you will not be able to use every offcut. Furthermore, allow spares for breakages, as even when you're careful, it's always possible for a few slabs to break when laying. In many cases these can be used for smaller areas, but it's still good practice to build in spares. Read our guide on choosing paving for more helpful advice.
When planning, consider the purpose of the space and the type of traffic it will receive. This will help you choose the appropriate type of paving you need for your project and whether you need to think about the thickness of the slabs as well. For example, driveway paving is always thicker than patio paving. Think about the colour and size of the paving slabs you would like as there are many choices available. Decide if you would like natural stone, concrete or porcelain paving as the tools required and laying techniques will often be different according to the material used. Here's a useful article that covers everything you need to know about paving slabs.
To measure for paving slabs, start by calculating the total area you want to cover. Measure the length and width of the space in metres, then multiply these numbers together to find the area in square metres. For irregularly shaped areas, break them down into smaller rectangles or squares, measure each separately, and then add the areas together. It’s wise to order around 10% extra to account for cuts, breaks, and any future repairs. For curved patios, you may need to allow extra as there will be a larger number of cut slabs that you may not be able to use. Read our handy guide on how many slabs you will require for your patio.
Now it's time to prepare the area where you will be laying the paving slabs. Preparation of the foundations for your paving is one of the most important parts of the project.
The next step is to add a base layer of MOT Type 1 to the bottom of the trench. Add at a depth of 150mm, rake into place and then compact down using the garden roller or wacka plate to a depth of 100mm.
The sub-base is one of the most important parts of your project as it forms a stable foundation for the paving slabs.
Check the levels of the base layer using a spirit level and look out for any uneven areas. If you find any low spots, add more MOT Type 1 to even them out. Once the base layer is level, you are ready to start installing your paving.
Now it's time to lay the paving slabs. Get a feel for how wide to leave your jointing gap between the slabs by dry laying a few beforehand.
Then start by putting your string line in place at the start and finish of your first row. Move this as you work through your installation to ensure you lay your slabs following a straight line.
Mix up enough sharp sand and cement for no more than a few paving slabs at a time to prevent it from setting too soon. Consider using a plasticiser to keep your mix pliable for longer.
As a guide, you can use four parts of sharp sand to one part of cement. Either mix in a wheelbarrow or in your cement mixer if you have one. Gradually mix in small amounts of water and occasionally take a small handful of mortar and squeeze it in your hand. It should neither be too sloppy or too dry and you'll know when it's perfect as it will create a small ball in your hand and stick together.
If you need to cut any paving slabs to fit into the space, use a diamond-tipped saw or a chisel and hammer to score the slab and then break it along the line. Be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting the slabs and if using a disc cutter, always use a mask as well as cutting paving slabs this way creates clouds of dust.
When cutting porcelain paving, be sure to use a specific porcelain blade and a wet cut as porcelain becomes very hot when cutting and this can cause it to break. For more information, read our article on how to cut paving slabs.
Finish laying your paving, making sure you do not walk on any newly laid slabs. Leave to dry for around 24-48 hours before accessing the area. If rain is forecast, cover the area to prevent it from becoming wet during this drying period.
Once all of the paving slabs are in place, fill the gaps between them with a sharp sand and cement wet mix (we recommend using a three to one mix for this purpose). Trowel into the gaps and use a pointing tool to force into place leaving an attractive smooth groove in the gap. Brush away any excess before it dries.
Another popular option is to use a jointing compound which can be used in both wet and dry weather conditions. With this option, wet the area and ensure it remains wet whilst installing. Brush the jointing compound into the gaps with a broom and wash and residual compound from the surface of the stone (this is important as once it dries, it is almost impossible to remove from the surface of the stone). When you are happy with the finish, leave to dry. Read our article on how to point patio slabs.
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If you want to protect your paving slabs from weathering and stains, making it easier to maintain, you can apply a paving sealant. Sealing is not required for porcelain paving as due to the low porosity of this stone, the sealant would mark the surface of the stone.
Most good quality sealers are 'impregnator' products which mean they soak into the surface of the stone and fill the tiny microscopic pores within the paving to prevent stains from taking hold. With this type of sealer, apply two coats with the second coat needing to be applied whilst the first coat is still wet. It's recommended to tackle small sections at a time to avoid the first coat drying too quickly. Impreganator sealers offer many years of protection.
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It's generally better to lay a patio on a cement mortar base rather than just sand. A full MOT Type 1 and cement mortar base provides a stable, long-lasting foundation that prevents your paving slabs from shifting or sinking over time. While a sand base can be easier and quicker to install, it may not offer the same durability, and paving can move creating trip hazards and breakdown of paving joints enabling weeds to grow in the voids.
Laying patio slabs directly onto soil is not recommended. Soil is unstable and can shift, causing the slabs to move, sink, or become uneven over time. For a long-lasting and even patio, it's essential to create a stable base. This typically involves removing the top layer of soil, adding a layer of compacted MOT Type 1, and then laying the slabs on a bed of mortar. This foundation provides the necessary stability and drainage, ensuring your patio remains level and secure for years to come.
The time it takes to lay a patio depends on the size of the area and the complexity of the design. For a small, simple patio of around 10-15 square metres, it can take 2-3 days, including preparation, laying the slabs and ponting. Larger or more intricate patios, or those requiring more groundwork, may take up to a week or longer. Weather conditions and curing time for the mortar also affect the overall timeframe, so it's best to plan for some flexibility in your schedule.
Patios are commonly laid all year around. A patio can still be laid in the winter; just be sure there's no risk of frost as this can disrupt the curing process. Similarly in summer, extemely high temperatures can cause the mortar to dry too quickly, potentially leading to cracks. Planning your project for a period of stable, moderate weather will help achieve the best results.
You should wait at least 24 to 48 hours before walking on a newly laid patio to allow the mortar to set properly. For heavier use, such as placing furniture or using the area regularly, it's best to wait around 5 to 7 days to ensure the slabs have fully bonded and the mortar has cured. This will help prevent shifting or damage and ensure a long-lasting surface.
It’s a good idea to cover a newly laid patio if rain or extreme temperatures are expected. Covering the patio with a breathable material like a hessian sheeting helps protect the slabs and mortar from excess moisture, which can weaken the bond and cause uneven setting. In hot weather, covering also prevents the mortar from drying too quickly, reducing the risk of cracks. Ensure the cover is not in direct contact with the slabs to allow air circulation and proper curing.
Yes, it’s important to leave a small gap, typically around 10-15cm, between your house and patio. This gap allows for drainage and prevents water from pooling against the house, which can cause damp issues or damage the foundation over time. It also accommodates slight movement or expansion of the patio slabs. You can fill the gap decorative pebbles or gravel to maintain a neat appearance while allowing water to drain away effectively.
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